Title: Journey Without Maps
Author: Graham Greene
Pages: 242
Status: Own, but not for long!
Read this book: if only because it’s by renowned writer Graham Greene.
Reflections:
Graham Greene is a world renowned author; he wrote Orient Express, Our Man in Havana, and The Quiet American, among others. Even though I haven’t read said books, I think it’s safe to assume they are all better than Journey Without Maps, because Journey Without Maps is one of the most boring, sexist, and racist books I have ever read, notwithstanding the mental adjustments I made for the travelogue having been written in 1936. I won’t argue Greene’s place among the greats in English literature, but I will have to say that if you use the word “turd” in a book (I’m not kidding – wish I had the page number), I think there is room for some healthy discussion about your place in the canon.
I started this book shortly after arriving in Liberia, because in the Embassy community here, much is made of the fact he wrote the book while living at “The Bungalow,” one of the residences on our compound, currently inhabited by our GSO (General Services Officer) and his wife. Two years later, I finally finished it, having picked it up and put it down at least 10 different times. This week I was bound and determined, for the sake of my project (and because I leave Liberia this Friday), to finish it. Despite the book only being 242 pages, I felt like it took an eternity to read – I begrudge the book for making me wait to pick up other, better books. Graham Greene (shaking of fist).
Graham Greene was the Anthony Bourdain of the 1930s. He was a travel writer, traveling (pre-air travel) by land and sea to exotic locations and journaling the curiosities he found there. I would find his trip to Freetown, Sierra Leone by sea, and subsequent trek on foot to Monrovia, Liberia impressive, if Greene’s observations in Maps weren’t so racist and sexist. As an example of the latent sexism in the book – Greene’s female cousin also makes the journey with him. But after a passing comment in the early pages, he never once mentions her again! Of course, we are regaled with Greene’s discomfort, fever, and complaints, though he never mentions his cousin’s assumingly similar reactions to the treacherous landscape. This leads me to believe that Greene was a whiner and cry baby (or, at best, an exaggerating braggart) and his female cousin (he doesn’t even mention her by name) the real, unsung hero of the book. Greene also never misses an opportunity to talk about breasts and butts – typical. So African women tend to be less encumbered with clothing than their Western counterparts.... Do every pair of breasts along the four week - 350 mile trek really have to be extolled as sensual and erotic? Graham Greene (shaking of fist).
I don’t want to entirely pan one of the “greats,” so I will say that some of Greene’s observations about Liberia are interesting in their prescience. He captures Liberian politics as they were in the 1930s and as they are, quite frankly, today. To a certain extent, little has changed in Liberia, from the dashing (bribing) of public officials to the seediness of the Western expatriate lifestyle in Monrovia. One of the big differences in the culture he describes, however, is the prominent place of animism in village life. While there are still weekly stories in Liberian newspapers of sassywood (ritual killings), bush schools (where boys/girls go to become men/women), and witchcraft (I have been threatened to be killed with “African signs," or witchcraft, during my tour here) – their subjects are relegated to a status of aberrant and outdated. The central place of the supernatural, though, in as recent a past as 1936, however, calls into question just how far animism has receded from the culture. So, despite my heretofore vociferous complaints, there were some redeeming qualities to the book. But, overall my impression is: if you’re looking for a book that will put you straight to sleep at night, Journey Without Maps is it. Greene’s long passages about his fear of rats and predilection for whiskey are monotonous and soporific. Just be careful – you may have the attendant dream of hiring Sierra Leoneans to carry you in a hammock from Freetown to Monrovia.
Favorite Quotes:
“I have begun to forget what the visitor noticed so clearly – the squalor and the unhappiness and the involuntary injustices of tired men. But as that picture is true too, I let it stand” (preface).
“’The love of liberty brought us here,’ but one can hardly blame these first half-caste settlers when the found that the love of their own liberty was not consistent with the liberty of the native tribes. The history of the Republic was very little different from the history of neighbouring white colonies…. Today the ‘ideals’ are still American, something a little like the American of Tammany Hall; the descendants of the slaves have taken to politics with the enthusiasm of practiced crap players” (15).
“I only mentioned these plans which came to nothing, these routes which were not followed, because they may give some idea of the vagueness of my ideas when I landed” (44).
“I could appreciate the need in a strange place of some point of support, of one or two things scattered round which are familiar and understandable even if they are only Sydney Horler’s novels, a gin and tonic” (48).
“There was cruelty enough in the interior, but had we done wisely exchanging the supernatural cruelty for our own?” (218).
“…for Liberia, whether to the diplomat or to the storekeepers, was about the deadest of all ends” (227).
Examples from passages that drove me crazy:
“I went away but looking back I saw a young girl dancing before Landow, dancing with the sad erotic appeal of projecting buttocks and moving belly” (89).
“Everywhere in the north I found myself welcomed because I was a white, because they hoped all the time that a white nation would take the country over. This attitude is unreasonable, but their minds do not move on the level of reason” (103).
“To my relief the Bassa men proved, as usual, to be liars” (214).